Hansen's Northwest Native Plant Database


Gardening, Naturescaping & Landscaping with Pacific Northwest Native Plants

Natives exist for nearly every garden need including great variety in plant form, flowers, foliage and fruit. Natives will provide an ideal refuge and source of food for birds and animals. Many natives can survive under extreme drought conditions. Many natives are evergreen, providing a delightful mix with deciduous plants for a year long, attractive garden.

In the Pacific Northwest there is a natural relationship and function for native trees, shrubs and perennials. Native trees, both evergreen and deciduous, provide the over-story framework of the landscape. Below tree level, shrubs provide an understory. Below the shrubs, perennials including ground covers complete the natural landscape. Shrubs and perennials provide delightful color, texture and form. Some common questions and answers are shown below.

Accept and enjoy natives as they are. Enjoyment of natives implies an acceptance of the simple joys of nature - not a continual frenzied search for the different, the bigger, the brighter, the new. Did you ever really look at a native rose? Just a simple single petal flower - pale pink, nostalgic fragrance. How beautiful, how fragile and yet eternal! How close to the land and how close to life! If you can enjoy a simple wild rose, your life is greatly enriched!

INDEX TO GARDENING WITH NATIVES

Where to Plant

Trees in full sun

Trees in some shade

Trees in medium shade

Trees in deep shade

Shrubs in medium shade

Wet areas

Require no watering or maintenance

Good ground covers

Ferns

How to plant natives in your garden from containers

Saving water and surviving a drought

Wally's Wildlife Recommendations

Plants to attract birds and other wildlife

Tips on construction

Tall evergreen trees for larger habitats

Smaller evergreen trees for smaller habitats and understory for larger habitats

Deciduous trees for larger habitats

Deciduous trees for small and large habitats

Deciduous shrubs for large and small habitats

Evergreen shrubs for large and small habitats

Perennials for large and small habitats

WHERE TO PLANT -- Favorite Natives for Specific Growing Conditions

Native trees for full sun

Nearly all native trees do fine in full sun. This includes Fir, Cedar, Spruce, Hemlock, Pines, Oaks, Madrone, OR Myrtle, Maple, Alder, Birch, Hazel, Cottonwood, Quaking Aspen, Willow, Hawthorn, Plum, Cherry, Crabapple, Dogwood, OR Ash and Cascara.

Native trees for partial shade

Doug Fir, White Pine, OR Ash, Madrone, Hawthorne, Crabapple

Native trees for medium shade

Spruce, Hemlock, Pacific Silver Fir, Grand Fir, White Fir, Coast Redwood, Port Orford Cedar, CA Black Oak, Canyon Live Oak, Tan Oak, Big Leaf Maple, OR Myrtle, Cascara.

Native trees for deep shade

West. Hemlock, Sub-Alpine Fir, West. Red Cedar, Vine Maple, West. Hazelnut, Pac. Dogwood.

Native shrubs for medium shade

Pacific Rhodie, Salal, Evergreen Huckleberry, Red Huckleberry, Elderberries, OR Grape, Indian Plum, Devil's Club, Salmonberry, Twinberry, Pac. Wax Myrtle, OR Boxwood, Ninebarks.

Native plants for wet areas

For deciduous trees and shrubs, consider plants in the Willow family - Cottonwood and all the Willows. Consider the Birch family, including Birches and Alders. Western Red Cedar is the best conifer for wet areas. Bog Rosemary, Skunk Cabbage, Cat-tails and Yellow Iris all do well.

Natives that little or no watering or maintenance

Check native plants growing in non-cultivated areas in your vicinity as a start. Once established, most natives will go through the typical July - Sep dry period without water. The two toughest attractive native plants in the Willamette Valley are Doug Firs and Tall OR Grape, in my opinion. Many perennials, such as Camas & Trilliums go dormant in the dry season.

Native plants as ground covers

Andromeda polifolia (Bog Rosemary), Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Kinnikinnik), Asarum caudatum (Wild Ginger), Ceanothus prostratus (Squaw Carpet), Cornus canadensis (Bunchberry), Dicentra formosa (Bleeding Heart), Fragaria chiloensis (Coastal Strawberry), Gaultheria shallon (Salal), Linnaea borealis (Twinflower), Mahonia repens (Creeping OR Grape), Maianthemum dilatatum (False Lily-of-the-Valley), Oxalis oregona (Oxalis), Smilacina stellata (Star-Flowered Solomon's Seal), Vancouveria hexandra (Inside-Out Flower).

Native fern locations

Native ferns are shade plants. Do not use in full sun. Use the magnificent native Sword Fern as a strong design element in the shade garden - supplement with other fine native ferns.

WILDLIFE HABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS

Native plants that attract birds & other wildlife

There is a wide range of trees, shrubs, perennials and ground covers that provide food (and shelter) for birds, squirrels, etc. Trees include the Oaks, Giant Chinquapin (Chrysolepis chrysophylla var. chrysophylla), Oregon Myrtle (Umbellularia californica), Western Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta var. californica), Cascara (Rhamnus purshiana) and all trees in the Rose family (Hawthorn (Crataegus douglasii), Klamath Plum (Prunus subcordata), Bitter Cherry (Prunus emarginata), Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) and Western Crabapple (Malus fusca). Among the many native shrubs, the following are excellent: Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), Salal (Gaultheria shallon), Twinberry (Lonicera involucrata), all Oregon Grapes (Mahonia), Indian Plum (Oemleria cerasiformis), Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra), Three-Leaf Sumac (Rhus trilobata), Golden Currant (Ribes aureum var. aureum), Roses (Rosa), Blackcap (Rubus leucodermis), Thimbleberry (Rubus parviflorus), Salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis), Pacific Blackberry (Rubus ursinus), Red and Blue Elderberries (Sambucus racemosa var. arborescens and Sambucus mexicana), Russet Buffaloberry (Shepherdia canadensis), Mountain Ash (Sorbus scopulina), Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus var. laevigatus), all Huckleberries (Vaccinium), Cranberry Bush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum). Nearly all flowering shrubs and perennials attract butterflies. Red Columbine (Aquilegia formosa) attracts hummingbirds. The large, coarse flowers of Cow Parsnip (Heracleum lanatum) attracts numerous insects.

Suggested Northwest Native Plants for developing Wildlife Habitats along the lowland corridor from the Canadian border, south throughout the Puget Sound country and Seattle to Portland and the Willamette Valley to Roseburg, Oregon.

The above areas share a common heritage of native plants which form excellent habitats for mammals, birds, butterflies, insects, etc. I recommend below the best native plants for both large and small habitats in this corridor and list some of the “wildlife” that like each species. For more general information about each species, refer to my web catalog.

Tips on constructing wildlife habitats

Large Habitats should have a frame of large evergreen and deciduous trees. This may take decades to reach a significant size. For more modest projects, use shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen, with some perennials. Wildlife need food, water and shelter. You must solve the water need. The plants below are my choices for food and shelter in the Western Washington and Western Oregon Corridor. Try to always include species that form dense thickets such as Douglas Hawthorn (Crataegus douglasii) are good choices) and Native Roses (Rosa) – protect the little “wildlife.” Study how tall each shrub you select may grow so you fill in with food and shelter at different levels from the ground up. Always include Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus var. laevigatus) for winter wildlife food (but they are inedible to humans--thank you, Wanda!). Try to include at least one evergreen for winter color – don’t forget that Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea ssp. stolonifera) will have very attractive bare winter red stems.

Tall evergreen trees for larger habitats

Abies ssp – (True Firs) - (White Fir, Noble Fir, Grand Fir) Provide shelter for birds and mammals. Many birds eat the seeds including chickadees, nuthatches, grosbeaks, crossbills, finches, sapsuckers and woodpeckers.

Calocedrus decurrens  (Incense Cedar) Provides shelter for birds and mammals. Birds eating seeds include sparrows, thrushes, flickers, siskins and nuthatches

Pinus ssp (Ponderosa, Shore, Lodgepole) Provide shelter. Seeds eaten by pigeons, quail, doves, finches, squirrels, chipmunks, chickadees.

Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir) Birds eat the seeds. Important nesting and shelter habitat for birds and squirrels.

Tsuga heterophylla (Western Hemlock) Seeds eaten by squirrels, chipmunks and birds in the winter. Deer and elk browse twigs.

Smaller evergreen trees for smaller habitats and understory for larger habitats

Tsuga mertensiana (Mountain Hemlock) Seeds eaten by siskins, juncos, finches, crossbills, squirrels, chipmunks. Dense foliage provides protection.

Native deciduous trees for larger habitats

Acer macrophyllum (Big Leaf Maple) Bark rough areas support Licorice Ferns, Mosses and Lichens which in turn support other wildlife. Seeds eaten by siskins, finches, crossbills, chickadees, juncos, chipmunks and squirrels. Also support beavers, deer and muskrats.  Source of nectar for bees.

Alnus rubra (Red Alder) Many birds eat seeds, including mallards, grouse, widgeons, kinglets, vireos, warblers. Porcupine, hares, beavers, deer and elk eat leaves and twigs.

Fraxinus latifolia (Oregon Ash) Grouse, ducks, finches and other birds eat seeds. Deer and Elk eat leaves and twigs. 

Native deciduous trees for small and large habitats

Acer circinatum (Vine Maple) Birds eat seeds – good nectar source for bees. Smaller tree, also OK for smaller habitats.

Prunus emarginata (Bitter Cherry) Forms thickets – ideal for protection of smaller birds and animals. Many birds eat fruit including pigeons, jays, bluebirds, robins, orioles, finches, doves. Fruit also liked by squirrels, bears, chipmunks, coyotes, raccoons. Several butterfly species associated with Bitter Cherry.

Crataegus douglasii (Black Hawthorne) “A Must For Every Habitat.” Forms very tough, impenetrable thicket to protect small critters! Berries eaten by robins, solitaires, waxwings, thrushes, grosbeaks, woodpeckers, pigeons, ducks, pheasants, turkeys, foxes, bear and coyotes. Use this plant in every Wildlife Habitat.

Malus fusca (Western Crabapple) Smaller tree that eventually forms a dense thicket. Birds eat fruit, including grouse, waxwings, sapsuckers, woodpeckers, towhees, grosbeaks. Fruit also eaten by mammals.

Deciduous shrubs for large and small habitats

Cornus sericea ssp. stolonifera (Red Twig Dogwood) Forms a thicket that offers excellent protection for wildlife. Berries eaten by warblers, robins, fly catchers, flickers, vireos, wood ducks, grouse, pigeons, quail, bear, elk, rabbits. Orange sulfur butterflies use nectar.

Oemleria cerasiformis (Indian Plum) Berries eaten by robins, waxwings, foxes, coyotes, bear and deer.

Ribes sanguineum (Red Flowering Currant) Berries eaten by robins, towhees, thrushes, waxwings, jays, sparrows, woodpeckers, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, mountain beavers, skunks, chipmunks, squirrels.

Rosa ssp (Native Roses, Nootka, Cluster, Bald Hip) Native Roses form dense thickets, perfect cover for many birds and mammals. Birds that eat rose hips include grouse, juncos, bluebirds, grosbeaks, pheasants, quail, thrushes. Mammals that eat rose hips include rabbits, chipmunks, porcupines, deer, elk, coyotes and bear.

Rubus parviflorus (Thimbleberry) Birds that eat berries include wrens, quail and finches. Mammals that eat the fruit include foxes, coyotes, bear.

Rubus spectabilis (Salmonberry) Birds that eat berries include wrens, quail, thrushes, robins, pheasants. Mammals eating the fruit include raccoons, squirrels, foxes, coyotes, bear. Visited by humming birds and bees.

Sambucus ssp. (Red and Blue Elderberry) Red berries are ripe in early summer and blue berries in the fall, giving a long period of food availability. Many mammals eat the fruit. Birds that eat the fruit include woodpeckers, grosbeaks, jays, tanagers, sparrows and thrushes. Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies use the nectar.

Spirea douglasii (Douglas Spirea) Forms tight thickets – good shelter. Attracts butterflies.

Symphoricarpos albus (Snowberry) White berries persist into winter, providing winter food for birds including grouse, pheasants and quail – emergency food for many other birds. Hummingbirds and bees like the nectar.

Vaccinium ssp. (Red & Mountain Huckleberry) Berries eaten by doves, jays, orioles, sparrows. Hummingbirds and bees extract nectar.

Evergreen shrubs for large and small habitats

Arctostaphylos columbiana (Hairy Manzanita) Fruit eaten by quail, grouse, raccoons, coyotes, squirrels, deer. Hummingbirds and bees extract nectar.

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Kinnikinnik) Low ground cover. Birds like fruit including grouse, sparrows, pigeons. Bees like flowers.

Gaultheria shallon (Salal) Fruit eaten by pigeons, grouse, coyotes, bear.

Mahonia aquifolium (Tall Oregon Grape) Fruit eaten by birds including pheasants, robins and juncos. Foxes and raccoons like the fruit – Bees and butterflies extract the nectar.

Mahonia nervosa (Cascade Oregon Grape) Low form of Mahonia for ground level fruit. Fruit eaten by grouse, pheasants, thrushes. Nectar extracted by butterflies.

Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry) Food for late summer and fall. Birds that like berries include pigeons, robins, towhees, sparrows. Mammals also like the berries including bears and raccoons.

Perennials for large and small habitats

Aquilegia formosa (Red Columbine) The favorite “native” for Hummingbirds! Sparrows & finches like seeds.

PLANTING NATIVE PLANTS IN YOUR GARDEN FROM CONTAINERS

Including Tips On Saving Water & Surviving A Drought

Northwest Native Plants like the Northwest! This is their home. As good gardeners, you want to protect your investment and give the little guys and gals a head start. I suggest some extra water in the normally dry and hot season--July, Aug and into Sept--for two years. The new plant needs to get roots deep into the soil to find moisture.

Select the site carefully. Some plants can stand a lot of winter weather, even submerged as Oregon Ash and Willows. This kills some plants such as Madrone. Research this need before planting. As a general rule, a well drained site is best. Dig the hole wider than the diameter of the pot - up to 50% larger. You need to set the plant so the new soil level is the same as the soil level in the pot – the same soil line. However, shape the area around the plant into a shallow “dish” which will hold a temporary source of available water when watering the plant and not run off. This can be 2 or 3 inches deep. The bottom of the root ball should usually be on solid soil with some extra depth surrounding. It is best to dig holes the day before planting and fill with water to saturate the soil before planting the next day. If the soil in the pot is rather dry, water the plant in the pot the day before planting.  

Most NW soils are acid and many soils are heavy clay with little humus material. If your soil is too heavy you might amend the soil with some peat moss and sand or better yet, finely ground pumice. If you go to the trouble of amending the soil you might as well add some general purpose fertilizer (12-12-12) with minor elements to the excavated soil. However, native plants do not need large amounts of fertilizer.

If your soil is very heavy clay, the hole you dig may be smooth and slick on the sides. This may cause roots to “circle.” Counter this by roughing up the sides so the roots will penetrate. You might also punch several holes in the bottom of the hole you have dug by driving down an iron rod and then removing. Hopefully the roots will find these openings and get down deeper, faster.

Backfill and then pack the soil tightly around the plant. Commercial Tree Planters have a fixed routine of “stomping” on both side of the new transplant to pack the soil. This is OK but if a hose is available, “water pack” the soil by flooding with water.

Now prepare the top surface of the soil around the plant to save summer water. Apply a generous layer of mulch. Garden stores carry various mulches – larger wood chips are good. Apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the stem and out for 2 or 3 feet. Thick mulch keeps the soil damp and greatly reduces the amount of summer water needed. When you do apply summer water you can, if you like, pull the mulch back, water and then replace.  

The above indicates hand watering. You certainly can rig timer-driven drip lines. These use little “spitters” to place a controlled amount of water at the base of the plant.. This method applies water exactly where you want, in the amount you want, automatically.  

Here is a method that conserves maximum water but more initial work on your part. Buy a length of PVC water pipe at least one inch in diameter. Cut a piece with a hack saw about 2.5 – 3 ft tall. When you place the plant in the prepared hole and start to backfill, place the plastic pipe section so one end of the pipe is right in the middle of the roots. Slant the pipe upwards at a sharp angle and backfill. The 1” pipe will allow you to apply water with a narrow tip hose nozzle through the pipe directly to the roots. Tip: do not drive the pipe through the soil as this will plug up the pipe. Consider placing some sand at the lower end of the pipe to expedite watering.  

There is another method of saving water which may be controversial. Peat moss, once dampened, absorbs and holds water like a high capacity sponge. Create a peat moss sponge to hold water just below the root level. To do this, dig lower that described above and place a “pillow” of damp peat moss in the hole. Combine this with the water pipe above and you have reduced the water needs to the very basic level.

How often to water? Every plant has a different water need. I suggest you experiment a bit. Do not water until you see a slight “droop” of the leaves – the plant is asking for water. This works with deciduous plants but not with conifers. Sometimes you can use plants like coal mine canaries – if the tested plant starts to droop, add water to all plants.

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR NATIVE BULBS

Trilliums

For Trilliums select a site that will have mostly shade. Trilliums like humus – especially humus formed from decaying leaves. Amend the soil as needed with compost, mostly from leaves. Amend soil if necessary, to a depth of 12”. Do not add chicken or cow manure. Do not use mushroom compost. Peat moss is good. Trilliums bloom around Easter time and the top stems die back by June or early July. Underground, a new, small primitive white stem forms and grows about 1” or less, from the site of the previous stem on the rhizome (bulb.) It then stops growing and will not start up until it goes thru the winter cold. Plant the trillium so the white stem is 1 – 2” below the soil level (roots down, stem up.) Water in to pack the soil and then no more water until the winter rains come. By late Jan or Feb the trillium will start to grow. At that time the trillium needs plenty of water, hopefully from winter rains. After blooming, let the plants go dry to repeat the annual cycle. Plant the rhizome (bulb) with the roots down and the white primitive stem pointed upward.

Fawn Lilies

Fawn Lilies like partial shade. Amend the soil as described for Trilliums above. Plant bulb about 3 inches deep. Place a small chip of wood or stone just below the bulb to stop the bulb from going deeper. Fawn lilies have a habit of pulling themselves deeper and deeper, maybe to extinction. If I plant a Fawn Lily in a pot near the top of the soil, by the end of summer, the bulb has worked itself to the bottom of the pot.

Tiger Lily

Tiger Lilies like partial sun, partial shade. Prepare the soil as noted for Trilliums above. This is a true bulb with segments. Plant about 5 – 6” deep in the same soil as for trilliums above.

Summer Storage

All the above bulbs/rhizomes can be planted in July – August in slightly damp ground but do not water. They can also be temporarily stored from July through early September, when all should be planted out in the garden. To store in the summer, place in peat moss which is very slightly damp and store in the shade in a cool place – protect from squirrels, etc.

Contact:  star@chillirose.com ~ Copyright 2011 © Wallace W. Hansen ~ All rights reserved